Posts Tagged 'Paper Standee'



Cardboard Warriors Forum – Paper Miniature Hoard 102

Just a quick post, I’ve just finished assembling the cardboard warriors forum hoard 102. There were a number of submissions from different artists which resulted in 8 pages of miniatures. It has taken me some time to layout the miniatures, test cut and photograph them. I’ve done two different PDF’s one with SD registration marks and the other with Cameo registration marks both are contained in the zip below.

Currently the November hoard is open which is Xmas wars and Super Heroic, so I’d encourage anyone who has ever wanted to try there hand at creating a paper miniature to give it a try, make sure you check out the guidelines first.

You can currently get the file  from my dropbox folder, but I suspect it will be available from the Onemonk hoard area shortly:

Edit: Now Available from the hoard pages

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/15349793/Hoards/….Hoard%20102.zip

Not much else I can really add except I’ll be finishing the May/June hoard shortly.

Enjoy 🙂

How to Base Paper Miniatures

I’ve been meaning to do a post on how to base paper miniatures, which includes some of the various types of paper miniature basing you can do. There are advantages and disadvantages to each type of basing so there is no right or wrong way to base. Most of the various base idea’s below come from the cardboard warrior forums, so feel free to head over and browse through the gallery to see what others have done. Depending on the type of basing you decide on you’ll need to grab some of Onemonks standard bases or I’ve made up a plain base template as a layered PDF (30mb) which includes Onemonks basic textures. Additionally I’ve  included the raw shape png’s at the end of this post so you can overlay them on any texture you like from anyone, sorry no cut files yet.

First you’ll need to choose a base shape. This initially would seem easy to do and if you only game using one set of rules just use whatever they recommend. If however you jump around between rulesets/RPG’s/Wargamming it gets slightly more difficult to pick a shape. If your using one of the removable base types below you can just make different base sets for each rule sets you use although if you have 2-3 armies making all those bases can get tiring. For myself after much deliberation I settled on Octagons, there are several reasons why I choose Octagons:

  1. Most RPG’s don’t care what base’s you use but by some sort of weird default convention most stuff to be used for RPG’s ends up on round bases. Round bases do have their advantages in that you don’t snag base corners on things and they aren’t as easily damaged. Octagons provide a similar level of protection not quiet as good as a circle but very close.
  2. Most War games (fantasy) like you to rank your troops up into units and use movement trays, normally specifying a square base so troops and units fit tightly into a movement tray. Octagon bases can also be ranked up quiet effectively in movement trays.
  3. Some war gaming rules have the concept of facing and it can be quiet important which way your unit is facing. The facing rules can be based on a Hexagon or Octagon. By using the trusty Octagon you can cover facing very easily and disregard two sides if you need to very easily.
  4. There easy to cut out compared to circles 🙂 .

In the end pick the shape that works for you, for me that’s Octagons but if you want heart shaped bases go for your life :). With some of the below base types if you use black foam core you can save yourself a significant amount edging.

My Current Bases

I’ll cover my current basing method first. I use a modification of the slotted Foam board base (see below) and something Afet posted about here. I bought a sheet of 2/3mm Depron, Depron is used in RC plane construction and is pretty much available everywhere (okay I know the US/UK and AUS can get hold of it very easily).

I find these bases are slightly thinner than a 5mm foam core base below and don’t look quiet so odd on the table next to regularly based metal mini’s but provide plenty of stability for the paper mini’s. The mini’s don’t slip out easily during game play and I can remove the mini’s to store them flat at the end of a game so they take up less space. It also gives the illusion of flat basing which I prefer with my miniatures. There are a couple of draw backs: It takes slightly longer to make each base than the stock foam block method. I have to shorten the black base tabs a little bit on each miniature which again uses up time. Eventually the bases take on a permanent bend and wont grip the miniature as well (this takes a lot of use). Below I’ve documented the process for making these bases:

First up Print and Cutout a base of the required size.

Glue the above base to a piece of 2/3mm Depron/Foamboard

Cut around the hexagon and cut the base in half (or just off center if your going to rank troops) and colour all white edges to black using a thick black marker

Stick the two halves back down onto some thin magnetic sheet ( I use the cheap fridge magnet stuff on ebay), Insert a single piece of card between the two halves as you stick them down to make a slight gap.

Trim the magnet to size and the base is ready to use.

When I make bases for larger paper miniatures I do tend to mount them on thicker bases as they look less out of scale.

Flat Slide Bases (Reivaj bases)

Full credit goes to Reivaj for coming up with this basing method. I’m torn at the moment between using my basing method above or slowly moving my miniatures across to this basing method.

This basing method  provides you with a removable bases, the bases are not to thick so your mini’s don’t have a mounted to a plinth look, they are only slightly more difficult to make than my modified foam block bases above and the miniatures once mounted are near impossible to pull out of the base. They do however have a couple of draw backs: When you make your paper miniatures you have to be careful not to glue the black base tabs together so you can bend them outwards later on, sliding the miniatures into the bases can be a little fiddly and if your not careful you can damage the the base (bend it to much) or the miniature (burr over the tabs).

First up print and cut out a standard One Monk base of the required size.

Trim off the square end tabs as they are not required.

Flip over the base and glue some strips/pieces of cardboard inside the base (black spacers in the below image, I’ve been using doubled up 190GSM card to create the spacers), trim to size and edge.

Fold over and glue the top to the bottom

When Gluing your miniatures up make sure you Don’t glue the black tabs as you need to bend those out left and right.

(You can strength the black tabs with a little sticky tape)

Base all finished. When sliding miniatures in and out bend the base upwards slightly.

As an addition I’ve been  sticking  a thin piece of magnetic sheet to the bottom of these bases to add a little extra weight/strength.


Slotted Foam Block Bases

I’m not sure who came up with this basing method but I’ve seen several users on the cardboard warrior forums using this technique . The advantage of these bases is that they are very quick and easy to make. However they are not without their drawbacks. I have had some problems pushing miniatures into the base slots and removing them which can damage the miniatures base tab, if you use standard 5mm foam core for the bases they are also very chunky. I tend to only use these bases in a pinch eg I’ve run out and need to mount some more mini’s for a game I’ll quickly cut some squares  from black foam board and wont worry about adding a ground texture.

First up Print and Cutout a base of the required size. I tend to find with these bases I need one size bigger than I would normally use for the miniature.

Glue the above base to a piece of foam board

Trim the foam board back to the base shape and cut a groove. I use a small steel ruler to help work the groove slightly bigger.

The base is all finished and ready for use

Onemonk Standard Bases

These are the standard Onemonk bases you can download. There are over 50 pre-made bases and textures available in multiple manufacturers textures. These are easy and fairly quick to make. I have found overtime with use that the tab on the base that holds the miniatures slowly loses it’s grippyness, this tends to occur more quickly than with the other base types. You can fix this issue by simply using a short bobby pin or if you prefer permanently gluing your miniature into the base. This of course then removes some of the advantages of paper miniatures as you will no longer be able to store them flat. I’ve included how I assemble them below as it’s slightly different to the PDF guide located here.

First up print and cut out a standard One Monk base of the required size and score along the indicated score lines.

Flip the base over and using a black  marker blacken the end tabs and a strip down the middle of the base

Simply glue the top to the bottom and edge with a black marker

The base is now ready to use

Permanent Flat Bases

With all the options above I no longer use flat basing as a basing method. Although it looks good it removes one of the key benefits of paper miniatures for me and that’s the ability to store a lot of miniatures in a small space. Saying that it is impossible to remove a miniature from a base short of ripping it off so during gaming they are very durable.

First up Print and Cutout a base of the required size.

Glue the base to your preferred basing material and edge. I’ve used magnetic sheet, Matt board and plain cardboard in the past.

Simply cut the black tab off your miniature and glue it to the base using PVA or super glue

Going All Out

There are some really nice based paper skeleton miniatures across on the cardboard warrior forums, although not removable from the bases they look out standing. Using the above bases as a start there is no reason you can’t use more traditional basing materials to really make your miniatures and bases pop. Although fairly labour intensive to make for a whole army, for special miniatures like Hero’s or PC’s these bases really help to make special characters stand out on the table top. Below is one example I’ve assembled but you could use any of the hundreds of regular basing tutorials on the web to create unique looking bases (here, here, here and here).

Fancy Reivaj style base (sorry about the dark base in the photo)

Here’s a picture of the five different base types side by side at the end of the day they will all look good on the table so pick the base that works best for yourself 🙂

Have fun gaming

Plain Base Shapes Layered PDF (30mb recommend right click save as)

Save the below and load in GIMP/Photoshop, they should be 2550×3300 pixels @ 300 pixels an inch

Circle Square Octagon Hexagon
15mm 15mm 15mm 15mm
20mm 20mm 20mm 20mm
25mm 25mm 25mm 25mm
30mm 30mm 30mm 30mm
40mm 40mm 40mm 40mm
50mm 50mm 50mm 50mm
Pill Rectangle Oct-Rectangle
15x30mm 15x30mm 15x30mm
20x40mm 20x40mm 20x40mm
25x50mm 25x50mm 25x50mm
25x75mm 25x75mm

Terraforce Troopers (Onemonk Bash) – Paper Miniatures

I’ve been hard at work on various projects since I stopped playing nexustk (MMORPG). This post relates to extensively modding the existing Terraforce troopers that Onemonk put out a while ago. I wanted to mod them for three reasons. Firstly I wanted to scale them down a little so they were more inline with 28/30mm miniatures. Secondly I wanted more pose options for the HE laser rifle. Lastly I wanted to turn them blue to fit in with how I visualized my armies colour scheme. As I was making all these changes I decided to add a few other colour scheme’s as well just in case.

I carried out all the mod work using GIMP. First step was to import the base set and scale them to more 28/30mm size as it turned out this was spot on 90% for these miniatures. This bought them more into line with 28/30 mm size and Sanity Studio’s scale. For those unaware Sanity Studio’s bought out Onemonk’s back catalog of mini’s and have been putting out some very nice fantasy miniatures, They produce about 1 new set every month but the quality of the artwork on each mini is outstanding (no they don’t pay me for saying this  🙂 ).

Once the troopers were in the correct scale my next job was to provide various colour options. Solid colours were easy but putting together the camo variates took significantly longer although once I had the process sorted out it become quicker. With feedback from the guys and gals across at the cardboard warriors forum I settled on 14 colour options:

I also created two skin colour overlays so that you end up with three skin tone options: Light, Mid, Dark. With all the colour options done I then created the HE Laser Rifle overlay. I had to do some significant fiddling to make the HE laser rifle nicely overlay the stock Laser Carbine, but it worked out well in the end and I think it was worth the work.  Next I laid all the different layers out and combined them into a layered PDF.  Lastly I created the 4 craftrobo GSD files I needed to account for all the weapon options and tested that each cut file was accurate. So this means that you can select uniform colour, skin colour and two weapon choices from the one pdf.

As the sets are going pay again in the near future, I can’t just make these mod’s freely available. I really don’t want to eat into the already small margins on paper miniatures that the commercial guys do plus it would be a breach of copyright and personal integrity.  As a side point if we lose the commercial paper mini makers we’ll lose a whole pile of future releases :). However all is not lost what I have been able to do is supply them to Sanity Studio’s and when the One monk website is updated my mod troopers will be a free download attached to the stock pay set when you buy it.  I’m very happy to be able to share my work with other people otherwise the above would be for my personal use only :).  I do plan on modding all the troop types into the above colour scheme’s, next ones on my list are the special weapons troopers.

I’ll post an update when the above become available so keep an eye on my blog or the One monk main site.

Update: These are now available from Onemonk

Cardboard Warriors Forum – Paper Miniature Hoard 90

I’ve finished laying out forum hoard 90, turned out to be very small. I scaled my two guys to Sanity Studio’s scale which is slightly smaller than standard One Monk size.

Pick the files up here:

Cardboard Warriors Forum

Have fun with them and drop by the other artists forum boards  to give them a little bit of feedback as well if you like what they have been doing.

Cardboard Warriors Forum – Paper Miniature Hoard 89

Took me a bit of time to get this one together and I had some issues with getting some of the miniatures scaled correctly. However it’s finally finished the Cardboard Warriors Forum Hoard 89, the theme was Robots and Androids. Once again this is not my work but the work of all the people across at the Cardboard Warriors Forum

Links to the files:

Zip File

or from this Forum Topic:

Forum Hoard Topic

 

Cardboard Warriors Forum – Paper Miniature Hoards 87 & 88

Jim across at the cardboard warriors forum is taking a short break, while he’s away I volunteered to compile and post the forum hoards. I’ve now compiled two hoards on behalf of the contributors on the board. It should be noted these are not my work, well I did submit the parcel mimics in the Nov hoard:

The Forum hoards are a great way to get started in paper miniature creation so feel free to head over to cardboard warriors forum and submit something :).

The above miniatures as well as a bundle of others can be downloaded from this thread.

I hope everyone has a Merry Christmas and Great New Year and I look forward to producing some more paper miniatures in the new year and stay safe if your traveling.

Turtle Clan – Paper Miniatures

I’ve  finished the Turtle Clan, which means I can sort of play through to the end of scenario 10 in Song of Fur and buttons, I really need to get those picnic bears done.  I haven’t added any extra troop types this time although there is an extra musician. I haven’t designed any flags but I might add a flag or two later on.

On with the show as they say, here are the pictures of the Turtle/Terrapins:

Turtle Command with Musicians

 

Terrapin Spears

 

Turtle Rifle

 

Turtle Bow


Turtle Snipers

 

Turtle Giants

 

Turtle War Anklyosaur


The files are below, you will need to rename the GSD files after you download them from .odt to .gsd(feel free to grab some bases from Onemonks site):

Turtle Clan Page 1 – PDF

Turtle Clan Page 1 – GSD

Turtle Clan Page 2 – PDF

Turtle Clan Page 2 – GSD

Turtle Clan Page 3 – PDF

Turtle Clan Page 3 – GSD

I’m going to be taking a little bit of a break from creating miniatures for fur and buttons as I need to get some terrain built. At the moment I have no gaming board to play Fur and Buttons on :). I will be coming back to these miniatures it just maybe 3-4 weeks before I get a chance to work on them again :).

Green Tree Frog Clan – Paper Miniatures

I finished the Green tree Frog Clan today this means I’ve finished up enough miniatures to play through to the end of scenario 9 in Song of Fur and buttons.  I haven’t added any extra troop types this time although there are two extra musicians. I did create flags for the standard bearer but I don’t like the way they look so I didn’t glue one to my standard bearer but left them on the page as I thought someone might still get some use out of them :).

I have some idea’s and thoughts for some other troop types later on which I’ll add once I’ve finished all the mini’s I need to finish the  Song of Fur and buttons scenario’s. Below are the pictures of the Green Tree Frog Clan:

Command Group: Standard Bearer, Major and Hero

 

Spearfrogs

 

Turtle Crusher

 

Musketog’s or Musket Frogs 🙂

 

Musicians: Piper, Tambourine Player and Drummer

 

Toad Rider Cavalry

 

Onemonkeybeau’s daughter across on the cardboard-warriors forum asked for some Pink frogs. So I did I full set of re-colours to pink of the above frogs:

I learnt a lot doing the re-colours in Inkscape. The biggest issue was that when I changed the gradient fill colours in Inkscpae to the pink scheme I had to also change all the line colours, this was much more time consuming as I had to click every object and adjust the line colour. In future I’ll set all the line colours using a gradient with the same colour at both ends to make re-colours much faster and easier. I have now set the above frog files up in that manner and I can produce any colour I like very quickly :).

The files are below, as usual you will need to rename the GSD files after you download them (feel free to grab some bases from Onemonks site):

Green Tree Frog Page 1 – PDF

Green Tree Frog Page One – GSD

Green Tree Frog Page 2 – PDF

Green Tree Frog Page Two – GSD

Green Tree Frog Page 3– PDF

Green Tree Frog Page Three – GSD

Pink Versions:

Pink Tree Frog Page 1 – PDF

Pink Tree Frog Page 2 – PDF

Pink Tree Frog Page 3 – PDF

I’ll get the turtles laid out as quickly as I can, until then have fun :).

Pirate Bears – Paper Miniatures

I’ve finally finished the Pirate bears that I need so I can finish Scenario 7 in Song of Fur and buttons. It’s been bit of long time between posts but I’ve been working on several things in tandem which has slowed me down a little but less risk of project burn out. I have expanded the troop types a little so that in the long term I can use the pirate’s as a general full faction for Song of Blades and Heros. I haven’t had a chance to stat up all the additional troop types yet so for the moment no stats but I will get to it.

I have tried as much as possible to give the pirates a ragtag appearance, so they are equipped with different looking muskets and clothes. I’m planning on using the fanciest sawshbucklerette (the one above on left) as a female pirate captain if I need one. I was a little stuck for musicians in the end the banjo player and Sea Shanty singer worked out unfortunately the Harmonica player didn’t look like anything. A picture is worth a thousand words as they say:

1st Mate Shagpile, Captain Longfur and a Banner bearer

Three Swashbucklerettes

Banjo player and a Sea Shanty Singer

Hulking Brutes, wielding small cannons

Cutlass Pirates

Musket Pirates

With these out of the way I’ll get onto the Frogs and Turtles, I’ve finished drawing both sets I just (can’t believe I said just 🙂 ) need to lay them out, create the GSD files and then test build them all. The files are below, as usual you will need to rename the GSD files after you download them (feel free to grab some bases from Onemonks site):

Pirate Bears Page 1 – PDF

Pirate Bear Page One – GSD

Pirate Bears Page 2 – PDF

Pirate Bear Page Two – GSD

I’ll get those frogs done asap 🙂

Paper Miniature – Sand Gecko (Paper Dunebuggy)

This was another project from late last year a paper Dunebuggy. I was working on it while I was sick so the progress was slow but I did get it finished. It was a much tougher project than I initially thought it would be and took a significant amount of time to complete. In the end the Sand Gecko was born, although with much trial and error.

The reason I started this project was that Jim over at One Monk Miniatures put out a very nice card tank. It was simple to construct had some really great texturing and a wide variety of colour schemes. If you need a paper tank for wargamming even as a proxy until your real metal/resin one turns up. I’d recommend heading over and grabbing the Wolverine. I found 95% print out to be a slightly better sizing but thats more my own personal taste.

Under Defiance or pretty much any generic Sci-fi wargamming rules I needed a more diverse range of vechiles than just a tank and troopers. I checked over what Jim had planned for the future of Terra-force and no dunebuggy was listed as a potential build (no point in doubling up). I had also been thinking about designing a paper dunebuggy for a long time but hadn’t been able to come up with any viable way to attach the wheels to an angled chassis.

First up came the design phase in the past I’d always tried to design papercraft items in blender/3d max. Those two programs always seemed to me to be massive overkill in terms of features and functionality for rather simple meshes that are required for paper models. After looking over a few options I decided to simply use sketchup as it was something I had used extensively for another project and I was most familiar with the interface at the time.

I had some problems initially with sketchup locating some of the more advanced options and sometimes the lack of fine increment control can be annoying but overall it turned out to be a great tool to use for designing the model and I’ll probably stick with it for all future models. With the design process I go through the scale of the object in sketchup is unimportant but the size and proportions of the objects on the model had to be correct. Also with grouping you can easily scale things up and down in sketchup if needed and once I was happy with the design I scaled it down to what I thought would be good size. After a few aborted designs I ended up with the below (This is exploded into parts):

I solved the Wheel to body issue by using a full length axle which interlocks with the body the wheels then attach to this. The mesh was exported as a Google earth file and imported to pepakura for unfolding layout and printing. Initially this was done at a 1:1 scale and the below was constructed, version 1:

A few problems became apparent with this model during assembly;

  1. It seemed a little on the big size when compared to the wolverine tank or a marine.
  2. The half round axles were an absolute nightmare to build.
  3. I’d forgotten to build an internal liner for the driver/passenger area.
  4. the single card thickness roll cage was to flimsy.

Most were minor issues and I doubled up the rollcage and eyeballed an internal liner while building version 1. The half round axle really worried me as it was a complete nightmare to build and very fiddly, additionally trying to build the axle at 15mm would have been near impossible.

Back to the drawing board, well sketchup. I thought a hexagon might be a better shape, easier to construct while not losing the perception of a round axle. The entire model was decreased in size to about 85% of the original and I duplicated the rollcage bars and drew in an internal liner. Version2 was born in all it’s glory (V1 Left, V2 Right):

I was much happier with the size but the axle although easier to build was still in the realm of annoyingly fiddly. I decided to try a square axle but mounted as a diamond shape so that a point was pointing upwards and forwards, again to give an illusion of roundness. I was also happy enough with the rest of the design that I decided to add the panel lines and detailing. Version 3 was born

I was very happy with the square axles, easy to assemble and they didn’t detract from the design at all, the panel lines were added in inkscape but this ended up being a partial waste of time as later I had to texture in Gimp and I ended up drawing/painting over all the inkscape work, it did however provide me with a design guide.

At about this point I thought I’m nearly finished just a few textures to slap down and I’m done…Boy was I wrong, I have nothing but the utmost respect for Onemonk I have no idea how he can texture so fast. He had the Wolverine textured in just 3 days, I ended up taking over 2 weeks on the dunebuggy. These were the issues I had to overcome during the process:

  1. Matching the Camo/Colours of the wolverine
  2. Matching the look (wear and tear) of the wolverine
  3. Developing my own texture style for tyres, seats, mud etc
  4. Putting it all together in a layered PDF
  5. Putting together the instructions
  6. Putting together the GSD file for Robocutters
  7. Doing a special 15mm version PDF/GSD

Most of the problems I had seemed to relate to workflow with a lot of double work occurring and finding free software to do what I needed to do. I completely underestimated how much work instructions are. Needless to say I learnt a lot solving the above issues and I was able to apply a lot of what I learnt to the dragonfly. I’m not going to detail all the problems and their solutions as that would make this post to big but some of the key points:

  1. Have good layer management in GIMP
  2. Save double backups while working, I lost a whole days work when GIMP crashed mid save corrupting my main working file.
  3. Don’t finish 1 piece and move to the next do everything on the model at once, ie colour everything, age/wear everything, add detail last
  4. Scribus didn’t generate layered PDF’s correctly, ie it would always print all layers no matter what was visible on the screen in the pdf, another onemonk forum user had the same issue (bug track). Although I don’t think the dev’s understand the problem and as far as I can tell it’s still pending repair.
  5. Instructions + GSD are almost as much work as texturing

Below are some final pictures of the Dunebuggy dubbed the Sand Gecko. For my first from scratch design with textures, I’m very happy with how it turned out. I learnt a lot during it’s development. The people over at one monk’s forum provided heaps of feedback and motivation to keep going. You can thank them all for the alternate rollbars and the racing versions 🙂 :

Files below as usual rename the odt files to .gsd. The PDF’s are layered so you can turn options on and off. The 15mm version is build-able (see above) but you’ll need tweezers, consider yourself warned :). The PDF’s are very big 20mb’s so best to do a save as rather than try and view in your web browser

Dunebuggy 30mm pdf

Dunebuggy 15mm pdf

Instructions Dunebuggy

DuneCut-page1 GSD

DuneCut-page2 GSD

Dunecut-15mm GSD

You can use the dunebuggy with Jims Terraforce marines or Slicks NCC Troopers. I did a test and a plastic/metal driver will also fit.
Terra Force Marines
NCC Troopers

Have fun….the bears are coming I promise 🙂

(This model is release under Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported)


Project Status


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