Posts Tagged 'Roleplaying'

Papercraft Build – Onemonk Hybrid Cannoneer

Onemonk Chimera Hybrid Cannoneer SmallThe onemonk site has not had a new release in a while but two days ago the Chimera Hybrid Cannoneer was released.  For those who missed it  Squirmydad took over custodianship of the onemonk website and all the content 4-5 months ago. Squirmydad has spent the past few months re-releasing all the old sets.  Now  the back catalog is back up he has released the first new set the Chimera Hybrid Cannoneer. Many of us have been waiting a longtime for this model ever since Onemonk showed some concept art 2-3 years ago… hmm maybe longer. I needed a break from building Flipit Black X troopers (25 waiting for arms) so I decided to build a Cannoneer.

Onemonk Chimera Hybrid Cannoneer all

The Cannoneer is a large model, think of it as either a light vehicle or small mech rather than as a single human sized model. The Cannoneer comes with four different weapons an Acid Lobber (right end), Spike Cannon (Left end) and two different types of claws (middle). These all mount to the top edge of the carapace, although I think I’ll be using the claws more for mods or possibly mount them down lower.

Onemonk Chimera Hybrid Cannoneer Spike Cannon

Onemonk Chimera Hybrid Cannoneer Acid Lobber

You can mount the weapons permanently or the Spike Cannon and Acid Lobber fit tightly enough that you can leave them as swappable weapon options (what I’ll be doing). I will be spraying mine with clear matte varnish so that the printed surface doesn’t take to much wear when sliding them on and off.

Onemonk Chimera Hybrid Cannoneer Claws Two

Onemonk Chimera Hybrid Cannoneer Claws One

Once I finished wrestling with my printer (its getting a little old 🙂 )the assembling of the model wasn’t difficult but it did take some time, this is fine if you remember the model equates to a light mecha or vehicle rather than a single  humanoid trooper. The Chimera Cannoneer will certainly help round out the Chimera Brood as they have been sorely lacking some heavier units/fire support. Unfortunately all the other Chimera models I had built were destroyed when the roof leaked in our back sun room so I’ll have to rebuild all the others from scratch again. This will be after the Black X army and the Orcs I’m working on, so many fun things so little time.

Onemonk Chimera Hybrid Cannoneer Ambush

If your looking for a Xenomorph styled Army but don’t want figure flats or are willing to spend a little more time building up the 2.5d Chimera Brood, drop across to RPGnow and pick up the whole set and then grab the Chimera Hybrid Cannoneer. I’m pretty sure you wont be disappointed and the sets even though a little old  (except the Chimera Hybrid Cannoneer) are still great value for money.

The mind is everything. What you think you become.  – Buddha

How to Base Paper Miniatures

I’ve been meaning to do a post on how to base paper miniatures, which includes some of the various types of paper miniature basing you can do. There are advantages and disadvantages to each type of basing so there is no right or wrong way to base. Most of the various base idea’s below come from the cardboard warrior forums, so feel free to head over and browse through the gallery to see what others have done. Depending on the type of basing you decide on you’ll need to grab some of Onemonks standard bases or I’ve made up a plain base template as a layered PDF (30mb) which includes Onemonks basic textures. Additionally I’ve  included the raw shape png’s at the end of this post so you can overlay them on any texture you like from anyone, sorry no cut files yet.

First you’ll need to choose a base shape. This initially would seem easy to do and if you only game using one set of rules just use whatever they recommend. If however you jump around between rulesets/RPG’s/Wargamming it gets slightly more difficult to pick a shape. If your using one of the removable base types below you can just make different base sets for each rule sets you use although if you have 2-3 armies making all those bases can get tiring. For myself after much deliberation I settled on Octagons, there are several reasons why I choose Octagons:

  1. Most RPG’s don’t care what base’s you use but by some sort of weird default convention most stuff to be used for RPG’s ends up on round bases. Round bases do have their advantages in that you don’t snag base corners on things and they aren’t as easily damaged. Octagons provide a similar level of protection not quiet as good as a circle but very close.
  2. Most War games (fantasy) like you to rank your troops up into units and use movement trays, normally specifying a square base so troops and units fit tightly into a movement tray. Octagon bases can also be ranked up quiet effectively in movement trays.
  3. Some war gaming rules have the concept of facing and it can be quiet important which way your unit is facing. The facing rules can be based on a Hexagon or Octagon. By using the trusty Octagon you can cover facing very easily and disregard two sides if you need to very easily.
  4. There easy to cut out compared to circles 🙂 .

In the end pick the shape that works for you, for me that’s Octagons but if you want heart shaped bases go for your life :). With some of the below base types if you use black foam core you can save yourself a significant amount edging.

My Current Bases

I’ll cover my current basing method first. I use a modification of the slotted Foam board base (see below) and something Afet posted about here. I bought a sheet of 2/3mm Depron, Depron is used in RC plane construction and is pretty much available everywhere (okay I know the US/UK and AUS can get hold of it very easily).

I find these bases are slightly thinner than a 5mm foam core base below and don’t look quiet so odd on the table next to regularly based metal mini’s but provide plenty of stability for the paper mini’s. The mini’s don’t slip out easily during game play and I can remove the mini’s to store them flat at the end of a game so they take up less space. It also gives the illusion of flat basing which I prefer with my miniatures. There are a couple of draw backs: It takes slightly longer to make each base than the stock foam block method. I have to shorten the black base tabs a little bit on each miniature which again uses up time. Eventually the bases take on a permanent bend and wont grip the miniature as well (this takes a lot of use). Below I’ve documented the process for making these bases:

First up Print and Cutout a base of the required size.

Glue the above base to a piece of 2/3mm Depron/Foamboard

Cut around the hexagon and cut the base in half (or just off center if your going to rank troops) and colour all white edges to black using a thick black marker

Stick the two halves back down onto some thin magnetic sheet ( I use the cheap fridge magnet stuff on ebay), Insert a single piece of card between the two halves as you stick them down to make a slight gap.

Trim the magnet to size and the base is ready to use.

When I make bases for larger paper miniatures I do tend to mount them on thicker bases as they look less out of scale.

Flat Slide Bases (Reivaj bases)

Full credit goes to Reivaj for coming up with this basing method. I’m torn at the moment between using my basing method above or slowly moving my miniatures across to this basing method.

This basing method  provides you with a removable bases, the bases are not to thick so your mini’s don’t have a mounted to a plinth look, they are only slightly more difficult to make than my modified foam block bases above and the miniatures once mounted are near impossible to pull out of the base. They do however have a couple of draw backs: When you make your paper miniatures you have to be careful not to glue the black base tabs together so you can bend them outwards later on, sliding the miniatures into the bases can be a little fiddly and if your not careful you can damage the the base (bend it to much) or the miniature (burr over the tabs).

First up print and cut out a standard One Monk base of the required size.

Trim off the square end tabs as they are not required.

Flip over the base and glue some strips/pieces of cardboard inside the base (black spacers in the below image, I’ve been using doubled up 190GSM card to create the spacers), trim to size and edge.

Fold over and glue the top to the bottom

When Gluing your miniatures up make sure you Don’t glue the black tabs as you need to bend those out left and right.

(You can strength the black tabs with a little sticky tape)

Base all finished. When sliding miniatures in and out bend the base upwards slightly.

As an addition I’ve been  sticking  a thin piece of magnetic sheet to the bottom of these bases to add a little extra weight/strength.


Slotted Foam Block Bases

I’m not sure who came up with this basing method but I’ve seen several users on the cardboard warrior forums using this technique . The advantage of these bases is that they are very quick and easy to make. However they are not without their drawbacks. I have had some problems pushing miniatures into the base slots and removing them which can damage the miniatures base tab, if you use standard 5mm foam core for the bases they are also very chunky. I tend to only use these bases in a pinch eg I’ve run out and need to mount some more mini’s for a game I’ll quickly cut some squares  from black foam board and wont worry about adding a ground texture.

First up Print and Cutout a base of the required size. I tend to find with these bases I need one size bigger than I would normally use for the miniature.

Glue the above base to a piece of foam board

Trim the foam board back to the base shape and cut a groove. I use a small steel ruler to help work the groove slightly bigger.

The base is all finished and ready for use

Onemonk Standard Bases

These are the standard Onemonk bases you can download. There are over 50 pre-made bases and textures available in multiple manufacturers textures. These are easy and fairly quick to make. I have found overtime with use that the tab on the base that holds the miniatures slowly loses it’s grippyness, this tends to occur more quickly than with the other base types. You can fix this issue by simply using a short bobby pin or if you prefer permanently gluing your miniature into the base. This of course then removes some of the advantages of paper miniatures as you will no longer be able to store them flat. I’ve included how I assemble them below as it’s slightly different to the PDF guide located here.

First up print and cut out a standard One Monk base of the required size and score along the indicated score lines.

Flip the base over and using a black  marker blacken the end tabs and a strip down the middle of the base

Simply glue the top to the bottom and edge with a black marker

The base is now ready to use

Permanent Flat Bases

With all the options above I no longer use flat basing as a basing method. Although it looks good it removes one of the key benefits of paper miniatures for me and that’s the ability to store a lot of miniatures in a small space. Saying that it is impossible to remove a miniature from a base short of ripping it off so during gaming they are very durable.

First up Print and Cutout a base of the required size.

Glue the base to your preferred basing material and edge. I’ve used magnetic sheet, Matt board and plain cardboard in the past.

Simply cut the black tab off your miniature and glue it to the base using PVA or super glue

Going All Out

There are some really nice based paper skeleton miniatures across on the cardboard warrior forums, although not removable from the bases they look out standing. Using the above bases as a start there is no reason you can’t use more traditional basing materials to really make your miniatures and bases pop. Although fairly labour intensive to make for a whole army, for special miniatures like Hero’s or PC’s these bases really help to make special characters stand out on the table top. Below is one example I’ve assembled but you could use any of the hundreds of regular basing tutorials on the web to create unique looking bases (here, here, here and here).

Fancy Reivaj style base (sorry about the dark base in the photo)

Here’s a picture of the five different base types side by side at the end of the day they will all look good on the table so pick the base that works best for yourself 🙂

Have fun gaming

Plain Base Shapes Layered PDF (30mb recommend right click save as)

Save the below and load in GIMP/Photoshop, they should be 2550×3300 pixels @ 300 pixels an inch

Circle Square Octagon Hexagon
15mm 15mm 15mm 15mm
20mm 20mm 20mm 20mm
25mm 25mm 25mm 25mm
30mm 30mm 30mm 30mm
40mm 40mm 40mm 40mm
50mm 50mm 50mm 50mm
Pill Rectangle Oct-Rectangle
15x30mm 15x30mm 15x30mm
20x40mm 20x40mm 20x40mm
25x50mm 25x50mm 25x50mm
25x75mm 25x75mm

Terraforce Troopers (Onemonk Bash) – Paper Miniatures

I’ve been hard at work on various projects since I stopped playing nexustk (MMORPG). This post relates to extensively modding the existing Terraforce troopers that Onemonk put out a while ago. I wanted to mod them for three reasons. Firstly I wanted to scale them down a little so they were more inline with 28/30mm miniatures. Secondly I wanted more pose options for the HE laser rifle. Lastly I wanted to turn them blue to fit in with how I visualized my armies colour scheme. As I was making all these changes I decided to add a few other colour scheme’s as well just in case.

I carried out all the mod work using GIMP. First step was to import the base set and scale them to more 28/30mm size as it turned out this was spot on 90% for these miniatures. This bought them more into line with 28/30 mm size and Sanity Studio’s scale. For those unaware Sanity Studio’s bought out Onemonk’s back catalog of mini’s and have been putting out some very nice fantasy miniatures, They produce about 1 new set every month but the quality of the artwork on each mini is outstanding (no they don’t pay me for saying this  🙂 ).

Once the troopers were in the correct scale my next job was to provide various colour options. Solid colours were easy but putting together the camo variates took significantly longer although once I had the process sorted out it become quicker. With feedback from the guys and gals across at the cardboard warriors forum I settled on 14 colour options:

I also created two skin colour overlays so that you end up with three skin tone options: Light, Mid, Dark. With all the colour options done I then created the HE Laser Rifle overlay. I had to do some significant fiddling to make the HE laser rifle nicely overlay the stock Laser Carbine, but it worked out well in the end and I think it was worth the work.  Next I laid all the different layers out and combined them into a layered PDF.  Lastly I created the 4 craftrobo GSD files I needed to account for all the weapon options and tested that each cut file was accurate. So this means that you can select uniform colour, skin colour and two weapon choices from the one pdf.

As the sets are going pay again in the near future, I can’t just make these mod’s freely available. I really don’t want to eat into the already small margins on paper miniatures that the commercial guys do plus it would be a breach of copyright and personal integrity.  As a side point if we lose the commercial paper mini makers we’ll lose a whole pile of future releases :). However all is not lost what I have been able to do is supply them to Sanity Studio’s and when the One monk website is updated my mod troopers will be a free download attached to the stock pay set when you buy it.  I’m very happy to be able to share my work with other people otherwise the above would be for my personal use only :).  I do plan on modding all the troop types into the above colour scheme’s, next ones on my list are the special weapons troopers.

I’ll post an update when the above become available so keep an eye on my blog or the One monk main site.

Update: These are now available from Onemonk

Tutorial – How to Build a Solar System

This is a little deviation from my usual project posts. Instead of showing a project I’ve finished I’ll run through a bit of a Tutorial/How to on designing your own Fantasy/Sci-Fi World Solar system. This is the process I used to design the Sarilo system in the previous post. In looking for this kind of information on the WWW, I pretty much came up blank -everything was either very high level or assumed your world was an earth clone except for the continental layout :). A word of caution: I’m no expert mathematician or physicists so I may have made some liberal assumptions with some of the formulas and maths below, if your reading this blog post for some sort of school project (unless it’s “Build a Fantasy/Sci-fi Solar system”), turn back now.

Jaw Dropping Picture for your Players

First up you’ll need to design  a Solar System layout, how many planets what types etc. If you’re going to all this trouble at some point your going to want to casually insert some kind of picture into your gaming session so the players can go “coooool”. So behold I have assembled the ultimate in solar system development tools, I’m possible over selling it a little. Below is a link to a very basic drag and drop solar system assembly page best viewed at 1280×1024 (+). It uses only CSS and Javascript to run no fancy flash around here :). I checked and it seems to function best in IE7 and 8 (just say yes to allowing active content if your asked). It functions tolerably well in Firefox although changing label names is irritating,  right click them first and then it’ll let you adjust the label name. Go forth and design a Solar System using the below or if your so inclined use Photoshop,  GIMP or something else:

Link to Builder

Link to Builder

Hopefully your back with a semi-pretty Solar system picture to throw at your players. Now we need to flesh out some of the details, how far is each planet from the sun how long does it take to orbit the sun etc. Now if you’ve stuck your habitable planet way out near where Pluto normally sits, now would be a good time to adjust it to somewhere closer to the sun rings 2-4 (possibly 5)are the best places for habitable planets. However it’s your Solar system so feel free to keep it that way but you’ll see the interesting impacts below.

Specify Planet Distance in AU

Don’t get to hung up on how far an AU is.  Just be aware a good range for Terrestrial (Earth like) planets is approximately 0.8 AU’s to 2 AU’s. Earth in our Solar System sits at 1 AU from the sun, Pluto hangs way out at 39 AU and Mercury at a toasty .4 AU’s. Now Assign each planet an AU Distance from the Solar System Star. The planets don’t have to be as spread out as much as our Solar System but do be aware big planets to close to each other could in reality have interesting effects on each others orbits, Feel free to play around with this Solar System builder. I punched in an approximation of the Sarilo System and ran it for a 100000 years (about 4-5 days) with no problem.  It’s interesting to try to create a stable solar system with one planet on an elliptical orbit that doesn’t wipe out your other planets, I have no idea why a comet hasn’t run into Earth yet :).

A little bit of Math

This bit is fairly glossed over, if you want to get into the full workings and understanding feel free to check out  Keplers Laws, for me I’m happy with the below. Basically grab your AU distance for your first planet and place it to the power 3/2, basically 1.5 and you’ll get the orbit of your planet in equivalent earth years. An example My primary planet Etena is 1.24 AU from the Star Ravi, 1.24 to the power of 1.5 equals 1.381 earth years or 504 earth days:

To make things super simple here is an Orbit calculator online (right at the very bottom of the page)or use this spreadsheet I assembled . Using the above does assume certain similarities between our Solar System and the fantasy one but unless you really want to get into some heavy math just live with the above :).

A little bit more Maths

So now you’ve got your planets and you know how many earth days it is to year for each planet. You can just see all your NPC’s running complex mathematical conversions every time they try to calculate what season it is. Time to give your planets unique day lengths etc. I’ll admit I stuck with an hour being 60mins for all the calculations I’m just not that dedicated to make up whole new time system. For each of your planets allocate the number of hours in a day, before giving your earth like planet a 500 hour day, think what impacts this would have on your planets society. I’d recommend to keep your earth like planets hours in a day between 20-30 for easier game play.

Once you have the number of hours in day for a planet  simply take your number of earth days in a year x by twenty four then divide by the number of hours in your planets days, this is the number of the planets days in a year, as an example Etena has 504 earth days in an orbit and 26 hours in a day. 504 x 24 = 12096 hours then 12096/26= 465.2. So there are 465 Etena days in a Year. If you like you can do the above calculation for all your planets. My handy spreadsheet will do these calculations for you :).

Adding the detail from the above

So you now have a Custom Year Calander for your planet which will if you need it to stand up to at least cursory mathematical checking. But what are some of the impacts gamewise? Below is a bit of dot point list of things to consider:

  • If your year is very long (in earth days), the seasons will be longer, more food might need to be stored for winter or a double cropping season might be carried out, plants might mature slower.
  • If your year is shorter (in earth days), plants might mature quicker, as winter is shorter less food needs to be stored.
  • Longer/Shorter Day length could impact working day length etc (shop opening hours)
  • People’s ages will be different younger or older depending on shorter or longer years, maybe you age by each season instead.
  • Certain events could be more or less important, ie if spring comes around every 100 days it’s going to seem less important to celebrate, however if winter is 250 days long your definitely going to have a big party when that’s over.  (or if your planets out by Pluto your whole life might be lived in “winter”)
  • Is your habitable planet closer or further to the sun, this could make it hotter or colder.

Basically think about how things would impact you if the days and years were of different lengths. Now that you know how many days are in your planets year you can design up a calendar for your players to use. Remember to include seasons, approximately one per each quarter of the year.

Hope this information is useful to other people building up a campaign world.

Orbit Calculator – Spreadsheet

Solar System Builder

World Building – Sarilo Star System Tapestry

I’ve been slowly writing and adding to my campaign world setting, I only really work on this when it’s late at night or if I’m very tired. The latest piece I’ve finished up is a solar system map. I decided to start right from the top and work my way down. So I had a feel for the Planets rotational period and year length etc I worked up a Solar System Map and a few Planetary Statistics:

Above is the Original image I assembled using elements from a few different NASA photos and images that NASA have made freely available. The planets are obviously not spaced out to any kind of scale. I’ve made the Sarilo System a dual Habitable planet system, although to start with I’ll only be detailing the Planet of Etena. Once I had the above created I ran it through a few filters to try and get a tapestry effect:

It’s not perfect but it does give the impression of a tapestry, I should have really added some aging like holes and ragged edges, but as it’s supposed to be a one of kind tapestry made by a famous Astromagus. It should be well looked after and protected so aging didn’t seem very appropriate. I pulled together rough statistics for each planet:

Name Sihnon Etena Ilvaya (ilvaya) Ceninia Onayel Aran Tevasi
Position 1st Planet 2nd Planet 3rd Planet 4th Planet 5th Planet 6th Planet 7th Planet
Type Hot Gas Giant Terrestrial (Life) Terrestrial (Life) Frozen/Ice Gas Giant Liquid Gas Barren Rock
Distance from Star 0.41 AU 1.24 AU 1.76 AU 3.2 AU 5.1AU 8.5AU 12 AU
Diameter (KM)
Day Length 7.5 hours 26 hours 27 hours 66 hours 16 hours 13.5 hours 350 hours
Days a Year 304 Sihnon Days 465 Etena Days 757 Hyrokkin Days 759 Ceninia Days 6306 Onayel Days 16081 Aran Days 1040 Tevasi Days
Equiv Earth Days 95 504 852 2090 4204 9045 15173
Moons 0 2 5 1 16 8 0
Rings 0 0 0 0 1 0 0

Assuming I’ve understood it correctly I used Keplers third law to calculate Orbital timeframes and I included an equivalency back to earth days. I realize using Keplers third law wont be a 100% accurate as I’m pretty much assuming that the Sarilo System is then the same as our Solar system but I figure for a Fantasy game setting it should be fine. The other figures are all made up, I’m still working on the Planetary Diameters, need to be a little more careful with those.

As I don’t get to GM very much (or at all any more) and I really enjoy world building I’m just going to do this Campaign world building project as something fun to do when I feel like it. I will continue to add to the world and will make posts here of anything of note. I have begun to upload some of the Info to a wiki but I’m not quiet ready to post the URL as it’s very empty at this stage :).

I’ll get back to Mayhem city and Hinterland builds.

(The layout of my image above was based on this one, although mines a very poor imitation 🙂 . I believe it appeared in or on a magazine cover at some point)

Colonial Bears – Paper Miniatures

I’ve been working on some paper miniatures for Song of fur and buttons. First up are the Colonial bears and the Compsognathus dinosaurs, I also did some honey pot markers. I did these in a different style to the normal onemonk style a more cartoon chibi style. I found them much easier to draw as the style seems to fit more to my naturally inclined drawing style :).

First up are the Colonial Bears, I’ve done the 3 main hero’s plus an extra female heroin. Next up came the Bear infantry carrying rifle muskets and lastly the Bear special infantry. I didn’t do a Colonial Captain but I did one of each of the infantry types with mustache which I’m going to use as Colonial Captains. Below are pictures of each troop type:

Fursworth,  Cuddlesbury, Paws, Fluffyfur

Lady Fluffyfur was added primarily for my wife as she tends to like to play female heroin’s. I see her as the daughter of an important Colonial Bear who is always following our three intrepid bear hero’s even when she’s not supposed to be and helping them out when she can.  Hopefully others will enjoy using her as well, the stats to play her are below:

Lady  Penelope Fluffyfur – Personality
Points 80  Quality 3+ Combat 3
Special Rules: Hero, Acrobat, Fearless Shooter: Medium


 

 

Bear Infantry

Bear Special Infantry

I’m going to add a few more troop types once I’ve finished off all the other troops to play fur and buttons through to the end.  Next up are the Compsognathus dinosaurs and honey pot markers:

The above miniatures  cover the first two scenarios in the fur and buttons book. The files are below, as usual you will need to rename the GSD files after you download them.

Colonial Bear One – PDF

Colonial Bear One – GSD

edit: I’ve relaid out the compsognathus and have made 6 honey pots fit on the sheet:

Compsognathus One Improved – PDF

Comp One Imp – GSD

I’ve left the originals below for completeness but the above should be used 🙂

Compsognathus One – PDF

Compsognathus One – GSD

I’ll finish up the remaining troop types needed to play the scenario’s through over the next week or so. A big thanks go’s out to Ganesha Games and Ben who developed and released Fur and buttons as it really is a fun setting for Song of Blades and Heroes.

Bugbears (Onemonk bash) – Paper Miniatures

I needed a little bit of a rest from drawing as I was getting a little bit frustrated with my current attempts at drawing my next paper miniatures. I really like Onemonks bugbears but unfortunately their is only one miniature. Bugbears are one of my favorite fantasy monsters so I decided to do a little bit of modification to the existing miniature to come up with four new ones.

I’m not going to detail exactly what I did as it would take to long a post 🙂 . I worked on each variant for about 1-2 hours each trying to make sure I hadn’t corrupted Onemonks artwork to badly and that the fronts and backs still aligned. I ended up with a Gimp file over 2gig in size when open and something around 200 layers for the 4 miniatures , the old computer was really starting to chug at the end. I constructed a:

  • Spiked stick club version, the club was borrowed from a troll,
  • A round mace version taken from Onemonks weapons sheet,
  • A dual weilding axe bugbear, existing axe plus one from the weapon sheet,
  • And a longbow wielding bugbear, I’m unsure if bugbears use bows but it looks good.

I had fun making these as I find bashing and modding much more relaxing than drawing, probably the most disappointing piece is the rear of the shield arm it just looks a little odd, but overall they look okay and the edits are hopefully not to obvious. A picture of the finished  bugbears:

Once again a big thanks to Onemonk for allowing us to mod his figures and change them around. I’ll definitely be putting these into Onemonk’s hoards once they are back up and running.

The GSD and PDF are below, As usual if you save the GSD rename it to .gsd rather than .odt:

Paper Miniature Bugbear(Onemonk mod) – PDF

Bugbear – GSD

Have fun with them.


Project Status


WWII Project First Release

80%


B-tech Buildings Five

20%


Design Victorian era City

15%


Something Different

5%


Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

Join 105 other followers

Content Released Under

Creative Commons License
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License.
Please Attribute to Sirrob01 with a link back to my blog

%d bloggers like this: