Archive Page 3

Flipit Blue Falcons – Commanders

Flipit Blue Falcons Air Marshal Roce Bleauciel SmlI really like the models for the flipit wargame made by newobimj, probably as they have a fun chibi look. As a bonus they come with there very own wargame called flipit for which newobimj has designed 4 full factions. The game has been around a fair while 4+ years and basically these have been on my to build list for about that long.

I finally settled on a scale to build the armies at I spent way to much time trying to decide on a scale with numerous test builds occuring between 100% and 65%. After comparing all the test builds I finally settled on a 75% scaling. This makes the little weapon tubes still build-able and the miniatures themselves stand about 28mm to the eye or 35mm to the top of the head/helmet. I plan on building all four factions and using them for flipit but also defiance  and of course flying lead.

First up I decided to build the Blue Falcon faction, I spent sometime working out how to assemble a few of the models as well as throwing together a few Custom models. First up I’ve completed the Commanders of the blue falcons faction; Air Marshal Roce Bleauciel, Serge Cargoe and Acel DeSparrow, I modified all of them so they use the karate chop hands and mounted them permanently to octagon bases.

Flipit Blue Falcons Commanders

First up we have Serge Cargoe, semi cyborg mad scientist type who gets around in an exo-skeleton wielding a nasty zap pistol and lightning glove. The assembly of the standard figure was pretty easy simple cylinder and a round top head. The exo-skeleton was a little tougher, I re-enforced each of the legs with wire in the middle and then mounted them to the backpack, bending them a little. I couldn’t find any instructions or any pictures of  an already complete Cargoe so I made a best guess with the leg locations. Hopefully the wire will prevent any future miniature sag through the paper bending.

Flipit Blue Falcons Serge Cargoe

Next up we have Acel DeSparrow, Rocketeer and all round smiling hero. I made some minor adjustments to his helmet colour so it was more gold/brass then silver and knocked together a rocket blast so it looks like he is just lifting off the ground. I used a tank explosion available on the flipit forum to make the rocket fire and smoke.  Looking at it I probably made the smoke and fire a little long.

Flipit Blue Falcons Acel DeSparrow

Lastly we have the big cheese of the Blue Falcons Air Marshal Roce Bleauciel. I didn’t want to have him sitting at the same height as the other falcons so I found a nice Crate papercraft (scaled to about 80%) and placed the Air Marshal on top of the Crate. I was trying to make it look like the Air Marshal was giving a speech before the troops head into battle and so he’s not looking the same as all the other regular troops when placed on the table.

Flipit Blue Falcons Air Marshal Roce Bleauciel

I found these a lot of fun to build and I’ve got more builds in the Blue Falcon faction coming shortly. If I could I’d share my 75% version of these files but unfortunately I can’t post in the flipit forum so for now you’ll have to scale them yourself. Later on if I get an okay to share or can post them in the flipit forum I’ll share them as I’ve done cut files as well. If I was building these guys again I would definitely edge in matching colour rather than in black but as I’ve now started in black edging they’ll all be black edged for consistency :).

Troop Builds here

Today was good. Today was fun. Tomorrow is another one. – Dr. Seuss

Castle Dice Review(Print and Play) – Kickstarter

Castle Dice logoI’ve just finished assembling my print and play copy of Castle dice by Fun to 11 games. I have had this game on my “to build” list for sometime but the number of dice I would have needed to source has always put me off a little. Fun to 11 games ran a kickstarter for Castle dice and had an option for dice only. I didn’t want to pay a small fortune in shipping so I elected for the dice only. As it turned out the dice only reward was meant for the US only (I miss read) but in what I can only say was a stellar level of Customer service, Fun to 11 games shipped the dice all the way to Australia (Big thumbs up and thanks).

Castle Dice All the Dice

A word of caution on Kickstarter, a number of people seem to see/treat kickstarter as a pre-order mechanism. This is not the case at all kickstarter is you providing an unsecured loan to the company or individual to launch a product. This means if the project goes south you’ll receive nothing (well maybe a refund). You can see the information AISC (Australian Investment & Securities Commission) has assembled on crowd funding. Basic rule of thumb as with any investment or business backing, do your research and don’t commit to more than you can afford to lose. Saying that I’ve supported 17 projects; 2 failed to meet funding goals so no cost to me, 7 I’ve received my goods for no issue, 5 I know the stuff is coming as the people running those KS already have 90% completed drafts (basically need funding to produce) or have started shipping, 2 are still active and 1 I’m unsure on but my pledge was minimal and was more of giving someone an opportunity.

On with Castle dice, if you live in the US and definitely want the game, I’d be inclined to just buy the game outright, it’s $65 shipped in the US and although I haven’t seen the printed commercial game in real life, the components look solid from the you-tube video’s. For myself as shipping to Australia almost doubles the cost of the game I used the print and play copy I received from the Kickstarter it contained cleaner artwork than the original print and play files. You might still be able to get these files from the Fun to 11 games website.

Castle Dice Castle Deck

The market cards are meant to be smaller the the villager and castle cards for ease of making them by hand I enlarged my market cards back to standard card size. This enabled me to simply print a front and back for all the cards on sticker sheet, then cut them out using a craft knife as slightly oversize card shaped rectangles. These I then carefully stuck onto the front and back of common magic cards and trimmed any overhang and rounded the corners back.  This was fairly mind destroying to complete 107 cards but they do look good if a tiny bit thick. I did contemplate using artscow however I might in the longer term expand my set to cover upto 8 players which will require me to print more cards and doing it at home through the same printer I can keep them consistent, plus new custom cards become a possibility. All the cards got plastic sleeved to make shuffling a tad easier and limit wear and tear.

Castle Dice Village Deck

For the playing mats and turn tracker I stuck these down to heavy box board and then covered them with clear contact to help minimize the wear and tear. I did discover that if I spray the box board with 3m glue and then stick the sticker sheet to the box board I seem to get much better adhesion and I had minimal warping. I tried this out the game pieces here as I had noticed a few my dungeon tiles the sticker sheet was lifting away from the box board. my guess is that the box board is very very dry and sucks any moisture out of the sticker backing causing it to lift slightly. I’m hoping the very light layer of 3m glue will provide a barrier and better adhesion, it seems to on these 5 test pieces.

Castle Dice Player Boards

Castle Dice Turn Board

Last up were all the tokens, I ran these through my trusty cutter and other than being a little thin they work well. I’ve played a couple of games and it would definitely be handy if the tokens were a little thicker and double sided. So I’ll probably work on remaking these int he future if the game itself gets enough play time (more on that later). The animal tokens are excellent and look very good on the table, the villager tokens in contrast I’m not so impressed with and I might find and use a different piece of artwork for these when I remake them. For resource markers I used clear glass beads which lets you read the numbers through the beads with little difficulty.

Castle Dice Tokens

We’ve played through a number of games now from everything from 2 through to 6 players (yep stretching it out). For myself and the people who played the game with me we found the game a little to flat/detached with not enough player interaction. Although I should caution that as a group we tend to prefer games with lots of player interaction for example Citadels, Resistance although Munchkin gets rolled our reasonably often in one flavor or another. It’s possible we are simply missing something from the game play or that the game just dosen’t fit what we all prefer to play.

Saying that the game does play solidly, we had no issue with any of the rules and most players had picked up what was going on by about 1/3rd of the way through the first game. I can see it as being a fairly good game for younger gamers (okay anyone with Kids) although depending on age they might struggle a little with some of the card interactions but saying that 8-9 year olds handle Ipads like pros so it probably wont be an issue.  We did find stretching the game to 6 players with just the standard dice wasn’t to much  of a problem. In two of the  turns the person picking last ended up with little choice but this actually made it slightly more enjoyable as we had exhausted the available resources for the world and naturally the time to play was also lengthened.

Castle Dice Market Deck

I do have some idea’s to increase player interaction so as to spice things up a little but as they will be experimental and it will require not an insignificant amount of work on my half to create customs cards etc I may not get to it but in no particular order, there a little shorthand noted:

  • Bribe the Barbarians – play the card and send 1 group of rolled barbarians to any other player.
  • Wall w/ Ballista  – Destroy a bunch of Barbarians.
  • Stables – Send out your on cavalry to raid a neighboring castle (resolve after barbarians raiding castle and receive one of resource if successful)
  • Wall w/ Catapult – Pummel a neighboring castle, not sure how to make this work yet.

I guess the big question is would I buy this game now, answer would have to be No, it just doesn’t fit with what our group enjoys.  I would point out that on BGG castle dice is running at a solid 7+ which is a fairly impressive score for a game so I suspect this is a personal group preference thing more than anything (not every game will please everyone) . If your not sure give the print a play version a try before you buy.

“You can only be young once. But you can always be immature” – Dave Barry

Gimp Planet Making – Blue Green Globes (Earth Like)

Blobe Blue Green FourI’ve been helping a friend out making some planets, now he needs lots so I had to develop a technique for making planets quickly in Gimp. In my previous solar system post I covered some basics around making a Solar system so hopefully this post will help flesh out the solar system a little more.

The below process makes heavy use of donjohn’s fractal world generator, I’m unsure what copyright the images it generates are under but for personal use you should be fairly right. The reason I use the fractal world generator is it generates a nice globe and a flat map projection in several variates and gives a nice working base to whip some planets up in Gimp. This doesn’t make beautifully photo realistic planets but it makes passable globes for use on a solar system overview images/maps and provides you with a matching world map you can take and work on later. Naturally to follow the below your going to need a copy of GIMP installed and probably this Script pack which I use heavily. I am by no means a GIMP expert so I’m sure there are other (better) ways of producing the below effects but hopefully it’ll get you started.

I’ll only cover one planetary type today – a Blue/Green earth type globe. If you really just want something to use in a hurry feel free to grab one of these. Usual rules apply CC BY-NC-SA 3.0 and credit myself and donjohn in someway :).

Making a Blue Green Earth type planet – XCF Demo File Here

Go to donjohn’s fractal world generator and generate a random world, make sure you check the resulting flat map (press create) before settling on a final globe and play around with rotation angle to get a nice view. Most importantly once you settle on a globe record all the settings this will let you recreate the same globe at a later date.

Gimp Planet Tutorial OneI’ve found a flat map image height of 1000px works well

Set the Map palette to “Atlas” and right click and copy the globe image and the flat map Images into Gimp as separate “New Images”. (Note: if you right click save as and then open these in GIMP ensure you change the image mode to RGB)Gimp Planet Tutorial Two

Then set the Map palette to “Mogensen” and copy/paste the new globe onto your globe Image in Gimp as a new layer and likewise with your map image:Gimp Planet Tutorial Three

Set the Mongesen layers on both images  in Gimp to Layer Mode “Overlay”. Then right click on your Mongesen layer and select “New from Visible“: Gimp Planet Tutorial Four

You can leave it there and jump down to adding clouds below. However you probably don’t want all your blue/green planets the same exact colour. So lets add some variety. First the ocean. Use the select by colour tool in addition mode (2 red squares) to select all the shades of blue (I set my threshold to 20 but the default of 15 works fine). Copy the Ocean from the Mongesen layer and then paste. Then do Layer to “New Layer”(this keeps the ocean aligned – do this on both images):

Gimp Planet Tutorial FiveInstant Deep Blue Oceans

Play around with different Gimp settings to get different ocean colours, I kept mine in a Blue/green pallette. But red and purple are achievable:Gimp Planet Tutorial Six

Play around with a mix of colouize and layer modes for even stranger effects.

Next Lets get some variety into our land masses,Firstly on the ocean layer on both images trigger layer>>Image size. Then use the select by colour tool on your ocean only layer but select in the empty space. Basically you want to select the empty pixels as by default these are all land mass (well most of them). Then select your Mongesen layer and copy then paste. Then do Layer to “New Layer”(this keeps the land aligned – do this on both images):Gimp Planet Tutorial Seven

Once again play around with different Gimp settings to get different land colours, You’ll find Layer modes less useful this time but Colors>>Colorize , Colors>>Hue-Saturation and Colors>>Color Balance far more useful (Whatever you do, do the same on both Images – Map & Globe):Gimp Planet Tutorial Eight

Hopefully now you have a base globe and a base map colored the way you want and looking pretty good:Gimp Planet Tutorial Nine

The base planetary map is finished at this point. However the globe needs some clouds and shadowing to make it look more ball like. Firstly some clouds on the globe image. Now the easiest thing I found to do was to search up some Earth images from NASA. Copy and Paste these into Gimp use the colour select tool to select and copy the clouds and paste those as a new layer onto your globe and scale them down. Now you can go do that yourself or simply save the png you like below and then follow the next step.

Firstly adjust the canvas size of the globe image.  Image>>Canvas Size and adjust this to 210x210px and center the image. Now File open as Layers and pick the cloud image you saved above. Set this layer  mode as Normal and Opacity at about 90%:Gimp Planet Tutorial Ten

Last few steps to go are to add some simple shadowing/highlighting. First add a new transparent layer to your globe image. Next select one of your original globe layers and first do layer to image size. Now grab the select by color tool and click in the empty space this will select all the empty pixels again. Next select>>Invert and select>>grow 1px. Click back onto your new layer and bucket fill this with solid black (#000000). The layer itself should be at the very top:Gimp Planet Tutorial eleven

Now duplicate the black circle layer and color>>invert. Then layer>>scale layer to 220px X 220px. Lastly move the layer to the left until a small segment of the black circle underneath is visible:Gimp Planet Tutorial twelve

Use the magic wand tool to select the white circle, Select>>Feather 40px. Finally select your black circle layer and press the delete key on your keyboard. Select>>None and hide the white circle layer. Set the Opacity of your black segment to 85-90% (see what looks nice): Gimp Planet Tutorial Thirteen

Almost done we just need to add a small highlight on the Sun-ward side, duplicate your black shadow crescent layer, Colors>>Invert ,  Layer>>Transform>>Flip Horizontally. Set opacity to 100% and Layer Mode to Overlay. Duplicate the layer and set Opacity to 50%:Gimp Planet Tutorial Fourteen

Last  Step; Layer>>new from visible, then duplicate that new layer. Select the lower of the two new layers and Filters>>Blur>>Gaussian Blur 8px. This gives the planet that sort of hazy aura you see around planet pictures sometimes. Save your xcf fie as next time you make a planet you can re-use the shadows and highlights from this file – saving yourself time:Gimp Planet Tutorial Fifteen

Export you planet as a gif/png and your map as a jpg and your done.

Blobe Blue Green FourBlobe Blue Green Four MapNow you are free to create as many earth like planets as you need for your fantasy Solar system(s). The above might seem like a complex process but once you get into a rhythm you can turn a planet out about every 10-15mins.  I’ll cover some slightly different techniques next time such as giving the planetary surface a rough/textured look and alien colours for example:

Daemon Two

Enjoy your Solar System building 🙂

Lego – Basing Minifigs for Wargaming (Part 2)

In my never ending hunt for different basing options for Lego Minifigs. I stumbled onto these nice hex bases by catspaw customs, now I’m a bit slow to the party as the bases have been around for a while.

I couldn’t make the Catspaw website work or at least there shop (I think they might have closed) so I picked my bases up from Gi Brick, but you can also grab them from Brick Arsenal and Minifigforlife.

Lego bases Parts2 OneFront and Back Clear Trans 4 stud

These bases are still not what you call cheap at around the $1 USD each.  This makes these bases more expensive than my home made washer ones (this previous post). However they are superior to my home made bases in a few ways and only one minor negative apart from cost:

  • They come in clear, I know for wargaming armies quite often you have themed armies and bases. For myself I like my mini’s to appear to be mounted on the right terrain that they are currently marching over. Clear bases let you see the terrain the miniature is moving over creating the illusion froma distance they are based the same as the terrain.
  • They stack and clip together like normal Lego.  Storing my washer bases is quiet annoying and due to the weight I have to be careful to store them separate to the minifigs and vehicles.
  • They are hexagonal, I prefer Hex bases to Round ones. This mainly stems from a few rulesets I’ve tried using facing more heavily.
  • The bases are not as heavy as washers so minifigs are easier to knock over, but I don’t think this will cause any major problems as it still requires a fair knock to push a Minifig over.
Lego bases Parts2 TwoHero’s vs the Undead

For me the above advantages more than out weigh the added cost. The bases themselves come in a broad range of colours and either a 2 stud or 4 stud design. For myself I’ll stick with the Clear bases with a 4 stud design so I can add markers if needed to the bases. I’m unsure if this was happy accident or not but inscribed on the bottom of each base between the 2 marker studs is a number between 1-9 on my clear bases it’s a little hard to read and I’d imagine on opaque ones you would need to flip the base over to read the number, I ordered 10 bases initially and received 1 of each 1-9 and a second 4. The bases are sized to be 1 inch square, however mine measure as just a hair over an inch on the long side (point to point) and just under an inch (flat to flat). I can’t see it causing myself any major problems and troops can still be ranked up if needed and it makes the bases fit in better with normal Lego plate stud sizing.

Lego bases Parts2 ThreeMy base plate is a little short

I’m going to pickup a few more of these clear bases and eventually use them for all my Lego gaming.

As always have fun 🙂

“Always desire to learn something useful.” – Sophocles

Lego Clone Army – SR-01 Clone Loader

SR-01 Clone Loader RenderBeen a while since I pulled together a Lego MOC. I decided to build a small Clone walker, however it’s not in the traditional Star Wars walker theme but more of a battlesuit or small mecha.

I see it as having started as a simple power loader with a couple of large overpowered hands. Then in frustration a clone commander having been pinned down by Droidekas, quickly bolted a combination anti-vehicle heavy blaster and light blaster to the right arm and equipped the hand  on the left with a nasty set of claws. With this heavy armament it can punch through a Droideka’s shield easily while remaining small enough to provide support for a unit of Clone troopers in very close quarters. Due to the short legs they are relatively slow but this doesn’t cause major problems as they can easily move twice as fast as a running clone trooper.

SR-01 Clone Loader Built

Most of the bits I used to assemble the Clone Loader I grabbed from my bits box although I didn’t have any bendy tubes and had to buy a few from bricklink to finish the model up. I did borrow the middle of the leg design from other small lego mecha models (the 4 way light holder). Not much revolutionary in the rest, I did stick a little bit of blue tack behind  the small turntables just to make them a little stiffer so they don’t turn so easily. I had enough parts to build two Clone Loaders although not all the light greys match.

SR-01 Clone Loader MockupMockup Image Background:Miss_Ohara CC 2.0, Planets NASA

I used Mlcad and Ldview to create the instruction images and laid them out in a word document. I wanted to try producing a render of the model, unfortunately I find Mlcad a little annoying to perfectly align parts (gaps in renders look terrible). However I did find a handy sketchup plugin which let me import the Ldraw parts to Sketchup and I assembled the loader in sketchup and then used the free maxwell render plugin to generate a simple render.

SR-01 Clone Loader Render

I didn’t play around with the settings much in the render tool but I’m fairly happy with how the render turned out for a first try. I was contemplating generating a simple short walking render animation but that’s going to take a little more time, one for a later post (maybe 🙂 ).  I’ll be adding these as an alternate walker to the AT-PT for my clone army, I’ll probably have a few different load outs.

Instructions are below if your curious about any of the construction steps or methods. I used a 2×4 plate on the base of my feet for added stability but this was excessive nothing more annoying than a model that falls over on the table :).

SR-01 Clone Loader Instructions

Have fun gaming and building

Treasure Chest Half Round Lid – Papercraft

It has been a long time since I pulled together a paper model of my own. So I decided to re-use the textures from the card box’s I created for Dungeon on a treasure chest mesh I designed about 2 years ago. It’s your fairly standard cliche treasure chest design with a square base and half rounded lid.

Treasure Chest One

The card box textures give the chests a cartoon feel and I’ll be using my assembled chests with Dungeon Plungin. The chests themselves are about 1 x 3/4 x 1 inch (length x width x height). I’ve included 3 different metal strapping colours, gold, silver/metal and copper. I assembled the layered PDF using Scribus and then used Chez/Mel ebbles fix to make the layers only print what you have turned on (Big thanks to Ebbles for sharing the fix).

Treasure Chest TwoFigures by Dungeon Plungin, Tile by Inked Adventures

If you’d like the files here they are:

Treasure Chest Half Round

Treasure Chest Instructions

Studio File on Dropbox

Have fun gaming 🙂

Papercraft Build – Dungeon Plungin The Monsters

Dungeon Plungin Lich King Monsters ThreeAs part of getting myself back into the old paper craft miniature rhythm I had to (re)learn how to use my new cutter properly on my new PC. So for practice I decided to pull together another copy of Dungeon Plungin. I’d wanted to recreate a copy of Dungeon Plungin (DP) after my last half finished copy got soaked when the roof leaked, that was nearly 3 years ago so I’m well overdue to start a rebuild. I decided to print out and build all the monsters need for the current DP V3 and the new under development DP V4 (V3.8ish).

I’ve had some problems in the past with tall flat paper miniatures bending  under there own weight, even when using 220gsm card glued back to back. To help strengthen the taller miniatures I added a wire spine. Basically I grabbed a cheap wire garbage bag tie (mine were paper wrapped) and cut it to length . Then I glued the tie vertically from the top of the miniature to the bottom. This gives the miniature some additional rigidity, it can still be bent and flattened but hopefully wont self bend/bow when in use.

paper Miniatures Wire Spine

Wire tie in approximate location were it’s glued between front and back

I  built the DP V3 quests and monsters first, some of these already had cut files. For the practice I recreated most of the cut files from scratch. First up the Knocking Wall Quest, full of Imps, Devilings, Gremlins, Gargoyles and one minor Demon (big guy with wings). I played around with the colours on the miniatures so they are not all the same colour, other than that they are all stock standard.

Dungeon Plungin Knocking Wall Monsters

Next we have the Orcish raider and Troll Lair Quest. Instead of building the basic miniatures needed for these two quests I built the full extended pack of Orc’s, Trolls and Goblins. I haven’t counted them all but I’m sure if I wanted to I could field a fairly decent Orc based Army and I’m not even certain all the miniatures are used in those two quests, still variety is the spice of life. I once again  messed around with the colouring on a few of the miniatures.

Dungeon Plungin Orcish Raider Monster One

Dungeon Plungin Orcish Raider Monster Three

Dungeon Plungin Orcish Raider Monster Two

Dungeon Plungin Orcish Raider Monster Four

Dungeon Plungin Orcish Raider Monster Five

The next quest is the Witch of the West Wood, Onemonk created the miniatures for the quest back in 2008 so they have a more Onemonk feel and the whole quest and the monsters has a tongue in cheek feel with dire bunnies, squirrels and O-Wee-O guards. As with the other monsters in the other quests I did some minor recolours.

Dungeon Plungin Witch of the Wild Wood One

Dungeon Plungin Witch of the Wild Wood Two

Last official quest for V3 DP is the Tomb of the Lich King. No recolours this time although I did spend sometime adding backs to the skeletons and reapers, then discovered Erf_Beto had already done this, you can grab his back and front versions here and here. A long time ago I did mod some standing rats and you can see those in my builds below, you can grab those from the Oversoul Games forum.

Dungeon Plungin Lich King Monsters One

 Dungeon Plungin Lich King Monsters Two

Dungeon Plungin Lich King Monsters Three

There are 5 Quests currently for DP V4 (V3.8). Some of the quests reuse the miniatures from V3, some are a mix and others are all new. For the moment you can grab all the V4 (3.8) play test stuff from the Oversoul Games forum. One of the major changes between V3 and V4 is the toughness of the monsters so the mix and levels are a little different. I did not make any mods to any of the miniatures as they are currently subject to change as the version evolves.

The first quest is the Dogface Demon quest filled with Kobolds and a single Gremlin, which I’ll grab from the ones above:

Dungeon Plungin Dogface Demons Monsters

Next Quest for DP V4 is Rock Solid, it’s your fairly normal rat, snake, spider cave quest with an earth elemental for the Boss. The rats I’ll reuse from the Lich King Quest above.

Dungeon Plungin Rock Solid Monsters

Both The Where Wolf , Castle Gryphon and Trolls Lair quest, consist of Greenskins, Wolves and a few gargoyles, no new monsters so no extra pictures for those three quests. In the base monster pack for V4 there are other monsters included either for you to create your own quests or possibly as the Oversoul crew have something planned. Below in no particular order are the additional monsters included in the base monster pack for DP V4.

Dungeon Plungin Extra Monsters V4 One

Dungeon Plungin Extra Monsters V4 Three

Dungeon Plungin Extra Monsters V4 Two  Dungeon Plungin Extra Monsters V4 Four

Dungeon Plungin Extra Monsters V4 Five

With the DP miniatures I assembled them as standard tab bases, this allows me to store the monsters in a smaller space and perfectly flat plus make use of some new bases I’ve ordered which I’ll post about once they arrive. As for my DP set I just need to finish creating some room decorations, primarily chests and maybe a few tables. Then it’s onto the hero’s and my Dungeon Plungin set will be finished and ready for the next Friday/Saturday afternoon of board gaming with friends.


Project Status


WWII Project First Release

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B-tech Buildings Five

20%


Design Victorian era City

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Something Different

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